Not so Sweet: Chemicals in Perfumes

Many of us wear perfumes, colognes, and body sprays; but the fragrances used in these products may not be all that sweet.

Some popular scented products contain a potpourri of potentially hazardous chemicals, many of which aren't listed on the packaging, say US researchers.

The US non-profit lobby group Campaign for Safe Cosmetics in conjunction with the Environmental Working Group (a non-profit environmental lobby group), commissioned independent testing of 17 popular fragrance products to determine what chemicals they contain. These included the following:

• American Eagle Seventy Seven

• Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

• Britney Spears Curious

• Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio

• Old Spice After Hours Body Spray

• Quicksilver

• Calvin Klein Eternity for Men

• Bath & Body Works Japanese Cherry Blossom

• Calvin Klein Eternity (for women)

• Halle by Halle Berry

• Hannah Montana Secret Celebrity

• Victoria's Secret Dream Angels Heavenly

• Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce

• Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow

• AXE Body Spray For Men-Shock

• Clinique Happy Perfume Spray

• Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue

The researchers found each product contained on average: 14 chemicals not listed on the label, 10 chemicals that have been linked with allergic reactions (such as headaches, wheezing, or asthma) and four compounds known to have the potential to disrupt the body's hormone system (including diethyl phthalate, a chemical linked to sperm damage in males).

Yet very little is known about the compounds used in fragrances. A review of government records shows that the US Food and Drug Administration has not assessed the safety of the vast majority of the chemicals used in these products.

Under US legalisation, companies are required to list the ingredients of cosmetics. However, when it comes to perfumes and other scented products the manufacturers often don't have to list the actual fragrance – producing chemicals instead these are simply listed as 'fragrances' on the label.

Why? Historically, labelling legislation has protected fragrance manufacturers from having to list the chemicals they use to create their 'fragrances' for secrecy reasons, to prevent competitors from discovering their ingredients and copying them.

But, the researchers argue, this legislation makes it harder for consumers – as well as researchers and government regulators – to know what's in these products.

In Australia

The picture is very similar in Australia, says Dr Liz Hanna, national convenor of the Environmental Health Special Interest Group from the Public Health Association of Australia.

In Australia, just as in the US, manufacturers are only required to put 'fragrance' or 'perfume' on the label. They're exempted from listing the individual ingredients.

However, there's evidence that at least some of these chemicals may be harmful, Hanna says.

About 20 per cent of the population are allergic or sensitive to chemical fragrances. For these people, exposure to these chemicals can cause a skin rash, hay fever, asthma, migraine, nausea, dizziness, fatigue or difficulty concentrating. These hypersensitivity reactions are usually easy to pick; as those affected develop symptoms soon after using the product.

However, it's the possible long–term effects that we know little about, as there's been very little research into how humans are affected by long periods of exposure to these chemicals.

Hanna says some of the chemicals used in these products are known to be harmful to animals in lab experiments, and are strongly suspected of being harmful to humans. These chemicals have been linked to conditions (such as diabetes) and certain cancers in humans (such as breast cancer), she says.

As in the US, there is an Australian regulator – NICNAS (the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme). But NICNAS only intervenes if an adverse reaction to a product is reported and a particular chemical is thought to be responsible. NICNAS then requires the product be tested, but it relies on the manufacturer to remove the chemical.

New chemicals introduced into fragrance are also tested (though manufacturers conduct the testing, not NICNAS). But most of the 3000 or so chemicals used in fragrances in Australia have been in use since before the introduction of compulsory testing, about 12 years ago. Therefore these fragrances don't have to be tested.

More Information Needed

For its part, the fragrance industry admits that some fragrances may cause short–term hypersensitivity and advises people who are known to have reactions to avoid their products.

But Hanna argues this isn't good enough. She says consumers need a lot more information about chemicals and their potential toxicity before they know for sure that these products are safe over the longer term.

Fortunately, over the last few years there's been the beginnings of an industry trend away from using products containing unknown, and possibly unsafe, chemicals. It's called 'green chemistry' and it's supported by consumer groups and some manufacturers in the chemical and fragrance industries.

Hanna, who has been involved with the green chemistry movement, says it is gradually helping companies to test the chemicals used in their products and to switch to safer alternatives.

But consumers do need better information, she says. The chemicals contained in products should be clearly listed on the packaging or on the company's web site so that consumers can know what it is they are spraying onto themselves.

SOURCES:
"Not So Sexy: The Health Risks of Secret Chemicals in Fragrance," The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, May 12, 2010.

Jane Houlihan, Environmental Working Group, Washington, D.C.

John Bailey, Personal Care Products Council, Washington, D.C
Peter Lavelle, ABC online, Australia